Indian-Pacific train experience

Are we there yet?

Trains seem to have always been somehow magical: steam trains (how does a gigantic metallic beast like that get driven by steam?), the joining of east and west in the US, the Orient Express in Europe, Hogwarts Express, the marvellous but oftentimes sordid mystery of trains running underground in many of the world's major cities, etc.

In an age of plane travel, the idea of travelling on a train can hold even more appeal than in the past. And given Zach's youthful love of trains, we decided to do the Indian-Pacific train journey, one of the world's great train journeys (as rated by no less than the Society of International Railway Travellers).

It is called the Indian-Pacific which implies travel from west to east, but you can choose to go the other way, Sydney to Perth. That route is a little more expensive, presumably due to greater demand. Who knows why. Perhaps because it is going to be a couple of hours longer due to the time difference. Or maybe because there is something exotic about riding the Indian-Pacific in the wrong direction.

Riding the train is an Experience with a capital E. The key Elements of that most Excellent Experience were as follows:


Elegant.
We were greeted by uniformed staff as we boarded. Henry, a young Englishman backpacking around Australia - in style apparently - was the staff-member responsible for our cabin and the others in our carriage. Lots of great gestures like coffee or tea for wakeup, and fabulous meals in a comfortable dining car. Elegant, but without too much pomp and feeling awkward if you prefer to dress in shorts and a t-shirt.

Exotic. 
It's all a little - or even a lot - different. It was fun exploring the two-person cabin, seeing it set up for sitting, then discovering the pull-down bunks, putting the ladder up against the upper bunk, scrambling up and down, finding the little toilet/bathroom tucked behind a door opposite the bunks, etc.

Entertaining.
At Kalgoorlie, we did a tour of town and explored a mining museum at midnight - or thereabouts! Another stop at Cook, a whistle-stop truly in the middle of no-where populated by deserted buildings (an old hospital, an old school, multiple homes), some imported trees (in stark contrast to the treeless plains around the clustered buildings) and a resting population of about 4 people and a dog. Yet another stop in Broken Hill exploring a Pro Hart art gallery or yet another mining site.

Exciting.
Travelling across Australia on a train is a curious thing because while the landscape is whizzing past the window, the scenery changes very slowly.

Cook - in the middle of nowhere

Papa: "Hey Zach look!"
Zach (looking out the window): "What is it?"
Papa: "Nothing"

About 30mins later:

Zach: "Hey Papa look!"
Papa: "What?"
Zach: "More nothing"

Having said all that, the scenery does change progressively and I think I came to appreciate that more as the journey progressed. We also espied many wild animals from the window: huge wedgetail eagles, a wide range of birds, kangaroos, emus, and camels.

Easy.
Nothing to do, no-one to see. Napping. Maybe go to the lounge car and play some cards or other games, meet some people, share a drink. Have another beautifully prepared meal and meet some more interesting people. Go back and have another nap.

Expensive.
The trip will set you back about $2000 per person, but it is a "must-do" trip at least once in your life if it holds any appeal.