Hong Kong wilderness? Sounds like an oxymoron, but it really isn't. When an offer came up to visit Hong Kong to teach a two-weekend course in the psychology of consumers and consumption ("Consumer Behavior"), I said "Yes".
This affirms one of the key principles of "manipulating" consumer behavior: just give customers want they want. It's a lot easier than trying to push them towards that which they don't want.
The course was then cancelled, but they agreed to pay for my non-refundable airline tickets, and so I went anyway.
Hong Kong is of course a major city (population 7m), and nearby mainland China features a set of massive megatropolises including Guangzhou (population 13m) and Shenzhen (population 11m).
Despite that, Hong Kong features some fascinating wilderness spots. Here's the ones I explored and highly recommend.
Bowen Road trail, Wan Chai green trail and Dutch path
My first four days or so were spent in Wan Chai, an old red-light district near central Hong Kong (across the harbour from Kowloon), and now a funky, arty neighborhood with amazing coffee shops, bars and restaurants.
Where's the wilderness? Just go up the bloody great hill (towards The Peak)!
Equipped with running shoes and running gear, I headed up the hill from Queen's Road (there's lots of stairs and lanes going upwards). I joined Kennedy Road and eventually happened across the Bowen Road fitness trail, a relatively flat paved roadway (without cars) dominated by runners, walkers and dogs at the Mid-Levels.
From there, I headed up even higher by the Wan Chai Nature Trail (VERY steep) to Stubbs Tce and along Black's Link around Mt Cameron. I eventually wound my way back to Wan Chai along the Dutch Path.
The Dutch Path starts as a paved pathway but becomes a completely bush-bound single-track (2:35 in the video above) that winds through a dense tropical jungle that could have been in the middle of nowhere. However, if you look away from the mountain, through the the trees and vines, you can get glimpses of the skyscrapers of Hong Kong..
Lantau, Ngong Ping and Tai O fishing village
I cheated. I took the cable car from Tung Chung to Ngong Ping (a tourist trap), saw the Big (Tian Tan) Buddha, and then took a bus down to Tai O.
The walk through the length of the old fishing village, much of it perched on stilts over the water is fascinating. The guy selling egg waffles in the main restaurant street is a must-visit.
Lamma Island, Mo Tat
Lamma Island (or more correctly Pok Liu Chau although rarely called that) is an extraordinary place.
Just 30 minutes from Hong Kong by ferry, this small island (7 kms long) has no cars and is accessible only by foot, bicycle or boat.
The population is just 6000 people, and about 5000 of them live in Yung Shue Wan (Banyan Bay) at the northern end. (If I ever get another gig in Hong Kong, I'll stay there and commute into Central).About 800 of the remainder live around the seafood restaurant town of Sok Kwu Wan (or Picnic Bay).
The remainder are scattered around the island with about 80 around Mo Tat Wan (where the ferry comes in).
Mo Tat is the old and original village at the top of a steep ridge above Mo Tat Wan. It has a population of about 10, and one kindly fellow who shares his home through AirBnb. It is tiny, it is different, it is awesome.
The hikes are spectacular - greenery, wildlife, smooth granite rocks, waterfalls, a glorious private beach on the south China sea (Yung Shue Ha, which is not to be confused with the Yung Shue Wan, the main town at the north of the island), tiny villages, kamikaze caves, and spectacular views from up on high (it's a helluva hike) of Hong Kong city to the north, and the busy shipping lanes to the south.
Shek O, Dragon's Back, Cape d'Aguillar
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| Dragon's Back Trail, village of Shek O & headland just beyond |
Just beyond the village are some very rich homes with Maseratis, Porsches, Telsas, etc parked on the street. And beyond them is a spectacular headland, open access to all on foot (leave your fancy car parked up with all the others).
Going the other way out of Shek O, back along the road you enter by, there is road that goes down to Cape d'Aguillar and on the other side, an entry to the the famed Dragon's Back in a national park. The Dragon's Back hike is surprisingly short (and steep), but can be easily extended to take in more of the park. You can even pay a visit to the Big Wave Bay on the way back to Shek O. (By the by, I think that Big Wave Bay is an aspirational name rather than descriptive).
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